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A rain cover brings aphids โ˜” And why I still put one up

A rain cover brings aphids

๐Ÿ—จ๏ธ "Every wet spell brings disease."

๐Ÿ—จ๏ธ "After rain the garden is too sodden to walk on."

๐Ÿ—จ๏ธ "I put a rain cover up and it didn't go well."

Hello, I'm Eiko. Eight years of growing vegetables organically and without pesticides, and a teaching licence in science.

The long wet spell is coming. It's the season with the most disease in a home garden โ€” and the preparation can only be done before the rain starts.

The point, up front:

Putting a rain cover up increases aphids.

Rain covers genuinely reduce disease. And there's something that comes with that. I'd rather you knew both before you put one up โ˜บ๏ธ

There are only two things to do

Diagram: two things to do for the wet season

What this diagram says

  • Two things, and no more
  • Cover (rain cover) โ€” โ˜‘ less disease โ˜‘ no splitting fruit โ˜‘ no soil splash
  • Drain (water) โ€” โ˜‘ dig a drainage channel โ˜‘ raise the beds โ˜‘ add rice husk
  • Both is ideal. But the cover has a catch
  • Drainage work can only be done before the rain starts
  • Get the rain that falls off the plot. Don't let it sit in the soil
  1. Cover โ€” stretch plastic overhead so the rain never touches the plants
  2. Drain โ€” get the water that falls off the plot instead of letting it sit

Ideally both. Covering has a catch, which comes later.

โ‘  Drainage โ€” and it can't wait

This is soil work, so once the rain has started it's too late. You can't walk on a sodden plot, and walking on it compacts the soil.

Do it while the ground is still dry.

Dig the channel first

Dig a drainage channel along the outside of the beds. Deep, and properly โ€” a half-hearted one does nothing.

And do it early. Try to dig it once the summer weeds are up and you start with a fight against the weeds. Get it done while you have capacity.

Raise the beds

Simple logic: water doesn't sit on high ground.

Roots spend less time submerged โ€” and roots breathe; they can't do it underwater.

Cutting a few escape routes through the bed itself helps further.

Add rice husk

Scatter rice husk over the whole plot. It holds its shape in the soil and creates gaps, which become channels for water.

Two cautions: don't overdo it โ€” drainage can become too free โ€” and husk is slow to break down, with some suggestion of nitrogen drawdown, so raise the beds and keep roots from sitting directly in it.

Vertical drains

Diagram: vertical drains

What this diagram says

  • Vertical drains
  • Pack the hole with rice husk and the channel stays open instead of collapsing
  • It also relieves the oxygen starvation in the clay layer
  • 1 bore with an auger (hard work) ๏ผ 2 if you hit a stone, give up ๏ผ 3 it collapses within a year, so redo it annually
  • Water doesn't sit on high ground
  • Don't try to finish it in one go. It's a long-term job

The most effective thing for a badly draining plot:

Bore a deep hole with an auger and pack it with rice husk.

Why it works

A plot that drains badly usually has a clay layer underneath.

However crumbly the topsoil is, water stops at that layer, has nowhere to go, and rises back up as a bog.

A vertical drain punches a hole through it. Packed with husk, the channel doesn't collapse and water drains away down it.

And a second benefit: it relieves the oxygen starvation in the clay layer. Air gets in, and soil life can function.

Being honest: it's hard work

You lean your weight on an auger and grind down. It's heavy labour, and you do several.

If you hit a stone, stop โ€” forcing it chips the tool.

And the holes collapse within a year, so it's an annual job.

It's still worth it

The boggy patches visibly shrink. And repeated year after year, the whole plot improves โ€” there are cases of former paddy ground becoming workable garden soil over several years.

Don't try to finish it in one season. It's a long view.

โ‘ก Covering โ€” what it actually does

Hoops and plastic over tomatoes or watermelons. The effects are clear:

Tomatoes are poor in rain โ€” water entering the fruit splits it, and leaves kept wet spread disease. The benefit is real.

And it stops soil splash

A quieter but large effect. Rain splashes soil up onto the leaves, and that is the commonest entry point for disease.

Under a cover, the rain never reaches the ground, so there is no splash.

It's the same goal as removing lower leaves to put space between soil and foliage โ€” solved from above instead.

But the cover has a catch

Diagram: the trade-off of a rain cover

What this diagram says

  • A rain cover has a catch
  • โ—‹ For the vegetables โ€” โœ“ no rain, so less disease โœ“ fruit doesn't split โœ“ temperature is held, so growth improves
  • ร— For the aphids โ€” โœ“ no more being washed, knocked or blown off โœ“ a warm environment suits aphids too
  • It isn't only the vegetables that are being sheltered

Lift the plastic off a covered watermelon and you find the undersides of the leaves black with aphids. Curled leaves, the growing points packed solid โ€” clearly more than on the uncovered plants. Why?

Reason 1: nothing knocks them off any more

Grown in the open, aphids get rained and blown on, and are washed away, knocked down and blown off. Numbers fall to some extent without anyone doing anything.

Under a cover, that stops. It isn't only the vegetables being sheltered.

Reason 2: it's warm and comfortable

A cover holds temperature, which visibly improves growth. And it's equally pleasant for aphids. Both parties under the same roof, both comfortable.

So don't put it up and walk away

If you use a rain cover, pest management comes with it:

Put it up and forget it and you'll avoid the disease and lose the crop to insects.

The aphid's year

Diagram: they multiply when it is neither hot nor cold

What this diagram says

  • They multiply when it's neither hot nor cold
  • Aphid numbers ๏ผ inactive in cold winter ๏ผ inactive in high summer
  • They breed repeatedly through the mild periods
  • One aphid produces hundreds or thousands of offspring in its life
  • "It's only two or three for nowโ€ฆ"

Aphids overwinter as adults or eggs. And their activity has a clear shape:

They build up in the comfortable periods, not the extremes.

Hit them now and autumn is easier

Reduce the numbers now and the autumn build-up is slower.

Through summer they're quiet but they don't disappear โ€” the survivors from spring are autumn's starting population. Control now is an investment in autumn.

One becomes thousands

A single aphid produces hundreds or thousands of offspring in its life. And it can bear live young directly rather than laying eggs, so the rate is in another league.

Therefore: don't let a few go.

"There are only two or three; I'll keep an eye on it." Those two or three are several hundred a fortnight later. Squash them the day you see them. It is by far the cheapest option.

And they carry viruses. Mosaic disease โ€” the one that ends a potato plant โ€” is spread by aphids. A virus can't be cured; the plant has to come out. So reducing the insect is directly reducing the disease.

To sum up

You don't have to do all of it. Dig one drainage channel along the outside of a bed this weekend. Once the rain starts, you can't โ˜”

Thank you for reading!