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Ginger gives you a harvest in midsummer too ๐ŸŒฑ And it wants part shade

Ginger gives you a harvest in midsummer too

๐ŸŒฑ "I have a shaded patch I can't use for anything."

๐ŸŒฑ "I planted it and dug up something the same size as what I put in."

๐ŸŒฑ "Waiting until autumn with nothing to show is hard."

Hello, I'm Eiko. Eight years of growing vegetables organically and without pesticides, and a teaching licence in science.

Ginger is one of the best-value crops in a home garden, for three reasons:

The point, up front:

The spot that doesn't get the light is ginger's seat ๐ŸŒฑ

The basics

Seed ginger is only on sale briefly

It appears in shops for about a month in spring and then it's gone. Buy it when you see it.

But don't plant it immediately โ€” early spring nights are still cold. Wait until the nights are properly mild.

Soil

Per square metre: well-rotted manure, 150 ml of poultry manure and 100 ml of oilseed meal, dug in thoroughly before making the bed.

Part shade is a real advantage

Diagram: part shade is an advantage

What this diagram says

  • Part shade is an advantage
  • Taro leaves make exactly the right shade โ€” taro ๏ผ ginger ๏ผ taro
  • Both like it damp, so one watering does both
  • The shade you had spare is now usable
  • The sunny beds โ€” tomatoes, cucumbersโ€ฆ

Every garden runs into the same problem: there isn't enough good ground. Tomatoes, aubergines and cucumbers all want sun, and the north side and the shade of buildings go spare.

Ginger grows there. More precisely, what it dislikes is strong sun and dryness.

The shade you had spare is ginger's seat.

Pair it with taro

Particularly recommended: plant ginger between taro plants.

Taro's big leaves give ginger exactly the shade it wants, and both like damp soil, so one watering serves both.

Poor drainage is acceptable too

Everywhere else the advice is free-draining beds. Ginger is the exception โ€” it grows in ground that holds water. If you have a damp corner, that's a candidate.

Orientation and angle

Diagram: orientation and angle

What this diagram says

  • Orientation, and angle
  • Which way the buds face โ€” the shoots come from here โ—‹ ร— โ€” place it bud side up
  • Depth โ€” 10 cm ๏ผ 5 cm
  • Dividing โ€” leave buds on both pieces โ—‹ โ€” let the cut dry before planting
  • The angle to lay it โ€” flat along the bed ร— โ€” it can't grow; neighbours collide ๏ผ uprightโ€ฆ

Buds up

Look at a piece of seed ginger and you'll see knobbly protrusions on the surface. The shoots come from those.

So put the protrusions upward. Planted upside down, the shoots have to come round and emerge late.

Depth

Don't skimp on spacing

30โ€“40 cm between plants.

Too close and they don't bulk up. "I dug up something the same size as the piece I planted" is almost always this. Too wide is never a problem.

Break up large pieces

You don't need to plant a big lump whole. If it has two or more buds, break it by hand.

The only rule: leave buds on both pieces. And let the broken surfaces dry before planting.

Lay it at 45ยฐ to the bed

A genuinely useful trick: place each piece at 45ยฐ across the bed.

Ginger expands sideways as it multiplies, so the angle matters.

Cover with rice husk if you have it. Ginger is planted shallowly, so a husk layer protects it from cold ground and freezing.

Summer care: don't let it dry out

Earth up

Once the shoots are 10โ€“15 cm, draw soil up. With mulch down, drawing it over the top is fine.

Feed once

At about 30 cm tall, the first feed:

Don't put it at the base โ€” the roots are already out beyond it.

And mulch with cut grass

In practice this is the whole job: don't let it dry out.

Lay cut grass or pulled weeds over the bed. It holds moisture and lowers soil temperature in high summer.

I cut the paths each year and put the cuttings straight onto the ginger bed. Something that was waste does the work.

Pests barely come

Ginger gets almost no insect damage and little disease. Plant it, earth it up, mulch it, water when dry โ€” and that carries it to autumn.

A harvest in midsummer

You don't have to wait for autumn, which is the enjoyable part. In summer, pull one whole young plant.

That's young ginger โ€” the white base eaten with miso. Tender, strongly aromatic, and surprisingly expensive to buy.

Obviously a pulled plant is finished, so take one in every few. I take two from ten.

The main harvest comes in autumn, when the leaves yellow. Lift before the first frost.

The science: the seed piece doesn't disappear ๐Ÿ”ฌ

Diagram: potato, sweet potato, ginger

What this diagram says

  • Potato, sweet potato, ginger
  • Potato (the tip of an underground stem swells) โ€” the seed potato disappears
  • Sweet potato (a root swells) โ€” what becomes the tuber is a root
  • Ginger (the underground stem extends sideways) โ€” the parent ginger
  • It doesn't replace itself; it connects and multiplies

Dig potatoes and the seed potato you planted is a shrivelled husk โ€” it spent itself into the new tubers.

Ginger is different. Lift it and the piece you planted is still there, with the new ginger attached to it in one connected mass. That's the parent ginger โ€” hard, and edible.

Why

Ginger doesn't replace itself. It connects and multiplies.

Three crops side by side

All "things you dig up", and all three are different things.

And the heat has a purpose

Ginger is pungent as a defence against being eaten. Which is why insects leave it alone โ€” the reason it's an easy no-spray crop is the pungency itself.

The aroma when you lift it is the same thing: a compound made for protection, which we happen to find delicious โ˜บ๏ธ

To sum up

You don't have to do all of it. Think of the shadiest, dampest corner you have. That's where the ginger goes ๐ŸŒฑ

Thank you for reading!